The Precious is making a noise.
It's not very loud, but it's real.
Marv can't hear it at all inside the car, The Lovely Harvey can.
It reminds her of sticking a playing card in the spokes of a bike. It reminds me of running over leaves or something stuck in the hubcap, and The Precious doesn't have hubcaps.
It's speed related.
Stays the same regardless of what gear I'm in.
Doesn't care if the car is in neutral or if the clutch is in.
Putting the rear in the air and spinning the wheels by hand doesn't replicate the sound.
I am seeing seepage from between the diff and trans, so one or the other might be a little low, but I'd expect that to be a LOT noisier.
Marv is thinking it's a wheel hub. I'd noticed a new pulsing type drone from the rear, so a wheel hub makes sense.
If only GM had not made it so I had to get the lower ball joint disconnected from the spindle to get the hub off. Bastards!
Wheel Bearings maybe ? Not a car guru by any means.
ReplyDeletejrg
Since it's speed dependent it would suggest hub bearings or if from the rear also cv joints. Find a smooth straight flat section of road and produce the noise. Do gentle to moderate lazy s maneuvers and see if the pitch changes with the side loading of the bearing. If it does at least you know your on the right track. I would also check the axle nut to hub bearing torque. Obviously a close visual inspection of any component that spins the same speed as the wheels would be in order. I've seen cv joints develop a worn inner race that would produce a noise,vibration, not so much on corvettes though. Ultimately you might not be able to identify the component in the early stages of failure with stethoscope or r+r and physical inspection. Differential side bearings could even be considered since they turn at axle speed.There is a noise diagnostic kit that has clip on microphones you clip on to suspect areas to listen for noise. I've used both kinds with poor results. Putting it on jack stands and listening with a good stethoscope may give you the best result. No Jack in me this time of comment.
ReplyDeleteThe noise is most apparent when there's a flat surface, like a fence or bus, reflecting it back to me.
DeleteNote to self: Rear axle p/n 25941372.
ReplyDeleteSo is this a slow speed knocking noise? That cross shaft pin is a hardened item.I would think the case would wallow or the retaining bolt before the pin would wear. During your next inspection grab the axle shafts where they go into the case and try to move up and down. One side have more/excess movement than the other?
ReplyDeletePut her ass in the air tonight.
DeletePut it in 5th and let it run at idle.
The clicking is in time with rear wheel speed.
Definitely right rear.
Took off that wheel and put her in gear again.
Clicking is coming from outboard at or in the hub.
Outer CV has no unusual play that I can discern.
I set the cell phone to record the noise and the mic sure makes it seem like it's coming from the hub and not the outer CV when the mic is pointed around a bit.
A drive around the block confirms that the wuhwuhwuh bearing noise has ceased, so I think it turned into the clicking.
Looks like almost 4 years and 40k miles is all you can expect from Centric. They was cheap!
Moog is going to replace it.
yeah 2002 dodge truck here, 150k. took it in for state inspection, busted rear shock. took it to my wrench, told him to check her over good, found front end loose, again. this is third time, about every 50k, well known issue with dodges. 1200 bucks later i get a sticker. wife keeps reminding me its cheaper than a monthly payment. starting to doubt that wisdom, but a new one is pushing $70k now!
ReplyDeleteThe idler arm on a 91-96 Chevy B-Body will give up the ghost about every 15k miles requiring replacement and an alignment. 20k if you use the Moog problem solver.
Deleteouch!
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