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GM Parts Giant lists it for $1,102.58. They show the retail price as $1,727.10.
There's a seller on ebay who has a new one for $1,186.97 shipped.
One could swap out a torque tube over a weekend with only a moderate level of thrashing.
The p/n 19132932 is just the tube.
What is interesting is the $1,102.58...
This is items 2-28 on the diagram.
Item 4 is the tube listed above. $689.84.
Item 7 is the bearing I think has gone bad. 12456210, $78.65.
Item 8 is the splined input shaft. 89060061, $499.45.
Item 12 are the two rubber couplings that connect the input and outputs to the driveshaft. 88894026, $130.11 each.
Item 14 is the actual drive shaft. 89060059, $918.50.
Item 17 is the output flange. 89060063, $204.09.
Item 19 are the other two bearings. 12456221, $74.30 each.
Just those parts, which are included in the assembly, total: $2,799.35. I feel like I did when I discovered you could buy a pallet of 4 Impala SS rims with center caps for less than the price of one rim shipped.
The three bearings and two couplers I need are $487.47. Then figure out the disassembly and reassembly.
There's some parts needed to rebuild it that have been discontinued. That's a problem. The three o-rings probably aren't a problem, but the slinger might be.
Just 2.43 times more than the parts to rebuild, I could have the whole thing.
I must think on this.
There is a point where it isn't worth it, monetarily or physically, to screw around with something any longer.
ReplyDeleteI 'can' do a lot of my own repairs. I have most of the tools. Just... no interest in going down the rathole of this part, then this part, then this part, then...
I can do it with small motors. I can do it with easily accessible pieces. Anything that requires more than 2 major steps to disassemble? Nope, that's what garage monkeys are for.
Or, in your case, buying the whole assembly to get the parts you need. In reality, you are replacing everything and now you'll have pieces parts that are still good for either later use or you can part it out and sell them on Flea-Bay.
Actually, that might be a good thing to do. Get the new assembly, fix the Precious, part out the old assembly once you determine what parts are actually bad. Maybe sell the whole darned thing for a rebuilder to futz with.
See if the seller will take the old stuff as a 'core charge' and credit you back some of the sell price.
No core charge since it's a GM dealership on ebay.
DeleteI'm thinking whole new assy in. Take old one to be rebuilt. Store for next time... in 2032...
Concur with going for the whole assembly new.
ReplyDeleteEven though your labor is "free", there is far less risk and loss of time by just spending 2.43 times the money and knowing everything is perfectly aligned and seated. Just think of all the aggro if you do the individual parts replacement, assemble it all and then find out something was not seated "just right" requiring second dis-assembly and correction (been there, done that too many times).
There are some things like diesel injection pumps and FWD VW axles where it does not pay to "do it yourself" down to individual component parts. Know when to pay a bit more and avoid stress.
Just in case you go the "rebuild it yourself" route;
ReplyDeleteI'm not sure if the bearings that you are replacing are spaced throughout the tube, or just at the ends.
In my case, I used a length of 5/8" allthread, along with appropriate nuts, washers, a wood block, and a wooden "shuttle" shaped to fit inside the tube to make a bearing puller when I did the similar job on my 928, that has three bearings equally spaced along the tube.
I worked up a sweat with a length of pipe on the wrench, and finished up "necking" the rod, but the bearings came out a LOT easier than driving them out.
With a little juggling, the same assembly can then be used to "pull" the bearings into the correct position during reassembly.
One bearing with its outer race pressed into the front of the torque tube and captive on the input snout. It comes out and goes in with the driveshaft assembly.
DeleteTwo bearings in a removable housing at the rear. The housing retains the driveshaft and the output flange needs pressed out of it and the housing disassembled to get at the bearings.
It's straight forward.
The scary wrinkle is the front bearing is seated by tapping on that rear housing until the input snout protrudes a calculated distance ±2mm. This step gets messed up by home mechanics enough that it's showing up in several videos. They manage to crush or collapse the rubber couplers and end up having to have the job re-done.
That simplifies it a little then. I am guessing that the whole torque tube may be a little shorter than mine - unless there is a whole lot of unsupported drive shaft flexing away in there :)
ReplyDeleteOne other wrinkle I had was that the 928 bearings ride in rubber housings that are a friction fit inside the tube. The approved technique was to lube the outside of them with KY "personal Lube" prior to assembly.
Pro tip: Don't let your wife find that stuff in your workshop before you have told her the story. :)