28 November 2022

And The Horse You Rode In

Got Moxie apart!


The old hub shown with hub removal tool.

Despite all signs pointing to the wheel bearing, it's possible that the RF caliper piston is hanging up a bit.  It didn't want to squeeze back into it's bore at all.

That'd be odd since it wasn't pulling to the side at all and there was none of the obvious stuck caliper smell.  It's an unmistakable smell!

I'll put the new hub in and see if the problem is fixed.  If not, $75 and a short road trip from now, I can have a new caliper.

5 comments:

  1. Dang. I thought Michigan had rust, but that shows plenty. As to the brakes, you might be able to save a few bucks by adapting a zerk fitting to a brake line fitting, putting it on the stuck unit then using a grease gun to force pressure (high pressure) into the piston housing, it will force the stuck piston out. Then you can clean it all out with gasoline, followed by acetone then alcohol, then inspect the bore. If not pitted, you can lightly use a 3 leg stone drill hone, clean again then clean the piston, put on a new seal wet with fresh DOT 4 and re-assemble. If that sounds like too much work, buy a pair of reman calipers and replace both on that end of the car, much safer and if one jammed, the other is likely to shortly, probably due to not changing brake fluid every 3 years or so. Done this so many times on my beaters and family cars it is almost easy.

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    Replies
    1. Considering I'm the master of destroying the o-rings on brake pistons... I leave the rebuilding to others.

      Iowa has salt cancer too, and this car started as my parents-in-law's.

      You cannot use any of the normal pinch-points to jack it up.

      Delete
  2. McThag, this may be common knowledge but it was news to me the last time I did our brakes. A local mechanic told me to ALWAYS replace the brake lines when doing the brakes because the inner lining can degrade and become a de-facto check valve preventing the brake from releasing as it should. Replacing mine solved an on-going issue instantly. YMMV.

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    Replies
    1. It's not a common enough problem to justify replacing the lines EVERY brake job. It's on the list of possibilities though.

      No smell and no pulling to the bad side makes me think this is the bearing and not brakes, but we shall see!

      Delete
  3. I think Iowa uses extra strength salt or something. The little Colorado i got from my Dad was terrible underneath and has rust-through holes in the typical places, lower rear corners of the cab mostly. When I got it down here to Texas I put it up on a lift and knocked off all the loose rust and crud from underneath and then hit it hard with the anti-rust Rustoleum paint. That won't stop it, but hopefully it will slow things down a little. Unfortunately for the Colorado I can't find pre-stamped patch panels for the cab corners like you can easily find for full size trucks. When I get more ambitious I'm going to have to grind out the rust holes and then try to snip, hammer and bend up some peices of sheet metal by hand to make some half-ass patch panels and tack them in place with my little wire welder.

    ReplyDelete

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