There's a strong temptation to just put the driveline back in and put off the clutch for a later day...
It's a stupid temptation to avoid struggling with two or three screws.
Also, to every automotive show and magazine who did a video on how to do a clutch swap:
You did it on a C5, not a C6; you simply decided it was similar enough and marked the vid C5/C6.
Well, Skippy, the bell housing on the C6 has to come off where the C5 just needs the inspection cover removed.
That's enough of a difference that a "this is how we got to all 8 bolts" would be very helpful to us C6 owners.
The service manual's "lower the engine cradle 25mm or about an inch" doesn't really inspire optimism. Though I am willing to give it a shot.
That'd require a second jack and resetting the car on all four jack points so the cradle can come down.
It'd be a huge bother and definitely need a second person.
A couple of write ups don't mention lowering the engine, and do mention it being a pain from the wiring harness blocking the topmost screw.
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Yeah sure.
ReplyDeleteI'd come over and help but theres about 1000 miles in the way.
You can do it! We have faith in you.
Just need my buddy to come over with his jack to do the reset of the support; my jack is occupied with the trans and driveline.
DeleteThis is just irritating, is all. I begin to understand why it's $2,200 in labor at all of the local shops for a clutch on a C6 now.
Man it's right there now,go for it.Yes you have to lower the cradle,may need a quality 15mm flex socket to access those bolts but it would be done. Think of the miles of trouble free driving you would have earned.Take care,Al
ReplyDeleteWhat we're going to try, since the engine is already supported, is to leave the cradle supported by the front wheels and raise the body by the front jacking points the inch or so we need to get around that silly wiring harness for the topmost two and to get enough space to actually pull the housing over the pressure plate.
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